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Home Brew Beer Recipes - Partial/Extract
 
Beer Brew 1 - Hubert's Belgium Trippel
  Beer Brew 2 - Straw Dog Kolsch

  Beer Brew 3 - Blow My Windmill Pilsner
  Beer Brew 4 - What to Wheat for Dinner
  Beer Brew 5 - Let the Oktoberfestivities Begin
  Beer Brew 6 - Belgian Battleground Ale
  Beer Brew 7 - Pablo's Kolsch
  Beer Brew 8 - Belgian Golden Ale
  Beer Brew 9 - Ichabod's Cranium Pumpkin Beer
  Beer Brew 10 - Appalachian Pale Ale (OAPA)
  Beer Brew 11 - Appalachian Pale Ale 2 (OAPA)
  Beer Brew 12 - It's Good to be American Pale Ale
  Beer Brew 13 - Another Munich Beer Tent Brau
  Beer Brew 14 - Up Under Australian Lager
  Beer Brew 15 - Monks Gone A Rye Ale
  Beer Brew 16 - Trouble With Belgian Dubbel
  Beer Brew 17 - Hubert's Belgium Tripel 2

About Australian Lager Home Brew Beer

The Aussies drink a lot of beer!  They are currently ranked fourth in the world in beer consumption per person - about 55 gallons each.  Lagers - or pale lagers - are the beer they drink down under.  Pale lagers are fully-attenuated (all sugars have fermented) and very stable beers which give off a very pale to golden-colored appearance, and any level of noble hop bitterness.  Expect a dry, crisp, and clean-tasting beer here.

Brewed primarily with pilsner malt and noble hops, they are, coincidentally the most common beer available anywhere.  American brewers of Budweiser ruined the pale lager by adding inexpensive adjuncts (add junk, as homebrewers of real beer like to say) such as corn and rice.  It amazes me that people still drink that shit.

Credit for the pale lager style goes to Gabriel Sedlmayr, who during the 1800s applied pale ale brewing at his Spaten Brewery (in Germany), where he brewed lagers.  The process was soon being used by other brewers, including Pilsner Urquell brewer Josef Groll, from Pilsen, Czech Republic.  Thus, lager's other used name - pilsner.

In the United States, the first brewer of pale lager beer was John Wagner, of Philadelphia.  In 1840, Wagner used a yeast from his home country of Bavaria to brew this beer.

Today, there is a new term, premium lager.  It is absolutely a marketing ploy used by very large brewers such as Anheuser-Busch to draw attention to their beers.  In my opinion, there are no mass-produced premium lagers.  The term is useless to most brewers of real beer, and carries no weight at all.  If you are one of the millions of Americans who have been fooled into believing there is something special about a "premium" lager, well then you need to become better educated on real beer.

Hops Used

Bittering - Australian Galaxy Bittering Hops (AA 14.0) - 1 Ounce.

Aroma - New Zealand Motueka Aroma Hops (AA 7.5) - 1 Ounce.

Technical Stuff

 

Styles of Beer
Many have said the taste of beer must be "acquired".  That may be true.  Although factors such as the brewing process and various spices, fruits, etc. play a role, the taste of beer chiefly comes from the malt and water used, esters (or lack of) from the yeast, and the hops.  And, it's the hops that people are inherently tasting when we say beer is an acquired taste... more

Choosing the Right Beer Glass

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Find a Beer Brewery

Home Brew How To: Brewing Beer

Discover the wonderful world of home brew.  If you've ever wanted to brew at home, but didn't know how to get started, this website serves to provide information on how to make home brew beer and the home brew process.  Get recipes for home brew beer, and step-by-step instructions on how to home brew beer.  No detail has been left out. 

Every new home brewer is going to need a basic set of brew equipment.  Read about all the home brew supplies available and typically used within the hobby.  Get information about home brew kits - one of the first purchases you'll make.  Find your local home brew stores and shops

You'll find that most beginners use bottles for their home brewed beer.  But, as you advance your knowledge and experience in brewing beer at home, you'll likely want to move away from bottling to kegging your beer.  Learn about the various home brew kegs and kegging systems.

Get answers about the home brew system, the best home brew kits, all the different pieces of home brew gear, and even where to obtain beer labels for your bottles!

Our Favorite Brew Supply Store
If you live in Western North Carolina, we highly recommend you visit the guys over at Asheville Brewers Supply!

 

 
Our Favorite Commercial Beers
Chimay Trappistes
Any of the Belgian Monk beers brewed within the walls of the Trappist Monastery and controlled by the International Trappist Association.  World renowned beers that are considered by us among the finest brews.

RJ Rockers
Great beer, brewed in a fashion familiar to any of us who have served with the Army/Air Force in Germany during the Cold War.  Love the new Pint Glass they sent me recently.  Ummmmmm!

BrandBrand Bier - The Brand Beer from The Netherlands.
While stationed in The Netherlands, this was the more popular beer, after Heineken.  In our opinion, it is a far better brew than the big "H" beer!  Unfortunately, Brand beer is not available in the United States.

 

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Saison Recipe

Scotch Ale Recipe

Scottish Ale Recipe

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Summer Ale Recipe

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Vienna Lager Recipe

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Beer Brew 14 - Up Under Australian Lager

July 25, 2014 by Rick Morris:

Recipe for this Australian Lager Home Brew

1. Briess Pilsner Malt Extract 6.6 Pounds
2. Crushed Grain, Lager Mix (.6 Durst Pilsner Malt, .4 Crystal-Pils Malt)
3. Australian Galaxy Bittering Hops (AA 14.0) - 1 Ounce Pellets
4. New Zealand Motueka Aroma Hops (AA 7.5) - 1 Ounce Pellets
4. White Labs San Francisco Lager Yeast - 1 Vial
5. Corn Sugar - 1/2 cup


Here are the ingredients of our Up Under Australian Lager (Dutch Lager) Homebrewed Beer.  Shown are two plastic canisters of Pilsen Light Malt Extract (3.3 pounds each), 1 pound of grains, in a cheesecloth bag, 1 vial of liquid yeast from White Labs, 1 package of Australian Galaxy bittering hop pellets (1 ounce), 1 package of New Zealand Motueka Aroma pellet hops (1 ounce).  1/2 cup of corn sugar for priming our homebrew is not shown.

February 9, 2013 - This is our first attempt at an extract-based Australian Lager.  It will also represent our first go at dry-hopping a homebrew.  We plan to add the New Zealand Motueka aroma hop pellets to the secondary, where they will steep for 7  - 10 days during secondary fermentation.

So, to start the brew day we cleaned and sanitized all our home brewing equipment, of course. And, we got our two fermenting carboys (each 6-gallons) cleaned, sanitized, in preparation for the wort.

Our kitchen sink filled with several gallons of filtered water and a few teaspoons of sanitizer (One Step), and some home brewing equipment.  This is how we start our brew day - cleaning and sanitizing our home brewing equipment.   Two 6-gallon glass carboys we will be using for fermenting our two batches of homebrew.  Each has been thoroughly cleaned and sanitized.  Each of these have about a gallon of filtered water and a teaspoon of One Step sanitizer in them.  They have been shanken several times to mix the solution and sanitize the insides of the carboys.

Next, 3 gallons of cold, filtered water went into the brew kettle.  Heat was added and the temperature was raised to around 150 - 155 degrees F.  At that point we added the grain bags, where it steeped for 55 minutes to 1 hour.  The temperature was closely monitored, obviously. 

Important: Do not add your grain bag until the temperature of your water has risen to, and is holding steady at 150 - 155 degrees F.  Why?  Well, if you forget about monitoring your water for a few minutes, you can always adjust for temperatures higher than 155 degrees F. (by cooling, obviously).  If the grain bag was placed in the water as the temperature was rising, and you step away for a minute, the grains may accidently steep at a higher temperature and produce off-flavors.

3 gallons of filtered water go into the brew pot and the temperature is raised to about 155 degrees F.   We broke our glass thermometer so we are using a food grade thermometer to verify and control temperature here.  You can see our water is now at the proper temperature of 155 degrees F.  Now we can add the grain bag for steeping.

In go the grains...

Adding our grain bag to the homebrew pot, where they will steep for about 50 - 55 minutes at a controlled 155 degrees F.

And, after 55 minutes, we take our the grain bag and let it rest over a sanitized strainer...

Here the grain bag has been removed from the homebrew and is straining over a sanitized bowl/strainer combination setup.  We will add this juice about half way through the boil.

After steeping of the grains, a lid was added to the brew pot (to speed the boiling time), and the temperature was increased to a near boil, where the malt extract and bittering hops were added.

Our homebrew pot with a lid on it.  This helps speed up the time it takes to get the brew to a near boil.   After reaching a near boil, the heat is removed and the malt extract is added to the homebrew.  Here you see the two containers of the sticky extract, ready for adding to the brew pot.

This recipe called for the bittering hops to be added at the start of the boil.  Here you see us adding the pellet hops to the pot.

Bringing the brew back to a boil, we carefully monitored it for boil over, for 55 minutes of a rigorous boil.  30 minutes into the boil, we added the remaining grain bag juices.

Showing the brewpot during active boil.  This is one of the more dangerous times for creating a mess.  If you don't keep an eye on the boil for the 10 minutes after adding the malt extracts and hops, you risk having a boil-over.  Here the brew is boiling nicely and without incident.

15 minutes before the end of boil, a teaspoon of Irish moss was added.  This aids in coagulating all the particles and proteins so that they fall to the bottom of the brew pot and reduces the amount of trub picked up when racking to the fermenter.

Here is an image of a bottle of Irish Moss. We added a half teaspoon to the boil about 15 minutes before flameout (well, in our kitchen, it would be electricity-out).

Just prior to the end of boil, we started adding cool, filtered water to the clean and sanitized 6-gallon carboy.  We added about 2 gallons.

The sink was half-filled with cold water, and the brew kettle was placed into it for cooling.

After a few minutes we siphoned the wort into the carboy, and the temperature reduced to 72 degrees F, where we pitched the yeast.  A thorough shaking for about 5 minutes to aerate the wort was followed by the addition of an air-lock.  The fermenter was moved to a corner of the house at room temperature. A dark towel was placed around it to keep light out. 

Showing our 5 gallons of homebrew beer after the addition of yeast, and with air-lock added.

Feb 10, 2013:  This morning, about 16 hours since yeast was pitched, fermentation has began.  We are moving the brew to a cool area of the basement, where temperatures are steady at 45 - 50 degrees F.  Remember, this is a lager.  We should have done that after we pitched the yeast, actually.

Showing our 5-gallon carboy about 18 hours after yeast was pitched.  Fermentation has stated, even though temperature was about 68 degrees.

Feb 11, 2013:  So, the brew has been in a cool area of the basement for about 24 hours now.  The temperature shown on the carboy is 57 - 58 degrees F.  That's still warm for a lager yeast.  It's active at about a plop every 3 seconds.  Hopefully, it will cool to around 40 -45 F.

Here you can see my Dutch Lager homebrew beer fermenting in a 6-gallong glass carboy at about 50 degrees F.Feb 12, 2013:  The brew is actively fermenting at about 52 degrees F.  About 1 bubble of the air-lock every 5 seconds.  Interestingly, it produces a sulfur aroma.  The particles have coagulated and can occasionally be seen floating up and down within the carboy.  Looks like this is going to be a partially successful fermentation for our first lager.  We have learned to expect some slight off-flavors (probably too distant for our young tastes).  Those flavors may come from the fact that we pitched the yeast at room temperature of about 70 degrees F, and moved the fermenter to a cool location after fermentation had started.  Learned this after just reading "How to Brew" by John J. Palmer.  Also, we don't have it cool enough in my opinion, even at 52 degrees F.  We'll see, though.

Feb 13, 2013:  Checked this morning around 11am.  Steadily fermenting and showing signs of slow down, with a plop of the air-lock about every 15 seconds.  Beautiful gold-amber color.  Krausen layer has fallen somewhat.  Temperature has dropped a couple degrees since yesterday and is now around 50 degrees F.  After checking at 4pm (5 hours later) I noticed the air-lock was plopping faster, around once every 6 or 7 seconds!  Temperature hasn't changed.  So, why the increase in activity after a slow down was indicated?  Perhaps I disturbed the contents a bit?  It is resting on a tall filing cabinet that shakes slightly when I bump into it.  Will have to check the message forums for the answer.

Feb 14, 2013:  Fermenting at about 1 bubble of the air-lock every 10 seconds.  Temperature has fallen to about 47 degrees F.  Looking good!  Sulfur smells are gone.

Feb 15, 2013:  Fermentation hasn't changed.  Still going at about 1 bubble per 10 seconds.  Temperature steady at 47 degrees F. 

Feb 16, 2013 (One Week After Pitching Yeast):  Checked this morning and all is progressing well.  Temperature cooled further to around 40 degrees F.  Fermentation has slowed somewhat.  One plop of the air-lock every 30 seconds.

Feb 17, 2013: Alert!  Air-lock froze.  Temperature was around 30 degrees.  So, we replaced the air-lock, after trying to melt the ice in it with a hair dryer (which didn't work).  Care was taken to switch it quickly with a clean and sanitized air-lock.  Fortunately, fermentation also had slowed to a near stop, eliminating the possibility that the air-lock and bung blowing out.

Feb 18, 2013  (9 Days After Pitching Yeast):  Temperature is steady after rising to about 40 degrees F.  Fermentation has picked back up again, with one plop every 15 seconds.

Feb 19, 2013: Fermenting hasn't changed.  Temp increased to 48 degrees F.  Still going at about 1 bubble every 15 seconds.  Starting to show signs of clearing.

Feb 20, 2013: Fermenting at 48 degrees F.  About 1 bubble every 15 seconds.  Nothing changed.

Feb 25, 2013:  Been checking the brew daily for the past 5 days.  Steady fermenting at 1 plop of the air-lock every 15 seconds.  Nothing changed.  This is certainly going to be a fully attenuated homebrewed beer!  Temp increased slightly to 50 degrees F.  Thinking about moving it to a secondary in a few days.  Really want to get it off the yeast before 3 weeks in.  We are presently at about 16 days.

March 3, 2013:  Moved the brew to a secondary carboy and added the aroma "pellet" hops directly to the carboy.

Here is a photo of us adding the pellet aroma hops to the secondary.

March 5, 2013:  We now realized we should have placed the hops in a cheese-cloth bag.  Most of the hops has gathered at the top of the carboy, in the neck.  They aren't saturating to the bottom like we expected.  So, the next time, we'll just add them to the keg, or weight them down with something inside a bag.

March 25, 2013:  Temperature has held steady around 50 degrees F. for the past few weeks.

April 7, 2013:  We decided it was time to move the beer to a keg.  During the process we picked up some of the sediment, which will settle out and be dispersed in a few days with the first glass or two.

         
 

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