Home Brew Beer Recipes - Partial/Extract
Beer Brew 1 -
Hubert's Belgium Trippel
Beer Brew 2 - Straw Dog Kolsch
Beer Brew 3 - Blow My Windmill Pilsner
Beer Brew 4 - What to Wheat for Dinner
Beer Brew 5 - Let the Oktoberfestivities Begin
Beer Brew 6 - Belgian Battleground Ale
Beer Brew 7 - Pablo's
Beer Brew 8 - Belgian Golden Ale
Beer Brew 9 -
Ichabod's Cranium Pumpkin Beer
Beer Brew 10 -
Appalachian Pale Ale (OAPA)
Beer Brew 11 -
Appalachian Pale Ale 2 (OAPA)
Beer Brew 12 - It's Good to be
American Pale Ale
Beer Brew 13 -
Another Munich Beer Tent Brau
Beer Brew 14 - Up Under Australian Lager
Beer Brew 15 -
Monks Gone A Rye Ale
Beer Brew 16 - Trouble With Belgian Dubbel
Beer Brew 17 - Hubert's
Belgium Tripel 2
About Australian Lager
Home Brew Beer
The Aussies drink a lot of beer! They are currently
ranked fourth in the world in beer consumption per person -
about 55 gallons each. Lagers - or pale lagers - are
the beer they drink down under. Pale lagers are fully-attenuated (all sugars have
fermented) and very stable beers which give off a very pale
to golden-colored appearance, and any level of noble hop
bitterness. Expect a dry, crisp, and clean-tasting
Brewed primarily with pilsner malt and
noble hops, they are, coincidentally the most common beer
available anywhere. American brewers of Budweiser
ruined the pale lager by adding inexpensive adjuncts (add
junk, as homebrewers of real beer like to say) such as corn
and rice. It amazes me that people still drink that
Credit for the pale lager style goes to Gabriel Sedlmayr, who during the 1800s
applied pale ale brewing at his Spaten Brewery (in Germany),
where he brewed lagers. The process was soon being
used by other brewers, including Pilsner Urquell brewer
Josef Groll, from Pilsen, Czech Republic. Thus,
lager's other used name - pilsner.
In the United States, the first brewer of pale lager beer
was John Wagner, of Philadelphia. In 1840, Wagner used
a yeast from his home country of Bavaria to brew this beer.
Today, there is a new term, premium lager.
It is absolutely a marketing ploy used by very large brewers
such as Anheuser-Busch to draw attention to their beers.
In my opinion, there are no mass-produced premium lagers.
The term is useless to most brewers of real beer, and
carries no weight at all. If you are one of the
millions of Americans who have been fooled into believing
there is something special about a "premium" lager, well then
you need to become better educated on real beer.
Bittering - Australian Galaxy Bittering Hops (AA
14.0) - 1 Ounce.
Aroma - New Zealand Motueka Aroma Hops (AA 7.5) -
Styles of Beer
Many have said the taste of beer must be "acquired".
That may be true. Although factors such as the brewing
process and various spices, fruits, etc. play a role, the
taste of beer chiefly comes from the malt and water
used, esters (or lack of) from the yeast, and the hops.
And, it's the hops that people are inherently tasting when
we say beer is an acquired taste...
Home Brew How To: Brewing Beer
Discover the wonderful world of
If you've ever wanted to
brew at home, but
didn't know how to get started, this website serves to
provide information on
how to make home brew beer and the
home brew process.
Get recipes for home brew
beer, and step-by-step instructions on
how to home brew beer.
No detail has been left out.
Every new home brewer is going to need a basic set of
Read about all the home
brew supplies available and typically used within
the hobby. Get information about
home brew kits - one of
the first purchases you'll make. Find your local
stores and shops.
You'll find that most beginners use bottles for their
home brewed beer. But, as you advance your
knowledge and experience in
brewing beer at home,
you'll likely want to move away from bottling to kegging
your beer. Learn about the various home brew
kegs and kegging systems.
Get answers about the home brew system, the best
home brew kits, all
the different pieces of
home brew gear, and even where to obtain beer
labels for your bottles!
Favorite Brew Supply Store
If you live in Western
North Carolina, we highly recommend you visit the guys over
Asheville Brewers Supply!
Favorite Commercial Beers
Any of the Belgian Monk beers brewed within the
walls of the Trappist Monastery and controlled by
the International Trappist Association. World
renowned beers that are considered by us among the
Great beer, brewed in a fashion familiar to any of
us who have served with the Army/Air Force in
Germany during the Cold War. Love the new Pint
Glass they sent me recently. Ummmmmm!
While stationed in The Netherlands, this was the
more popular beer, after Heineken. In our
opinion, it is a far better brew than the big "H"
beer! Unfortunately, Brand beer is not
available in the United States.
Beer Brew 14 - Up Under Australian Lager
July 25, 2014 by
Recipe for this Australian Lager Home Brew
Briess Pilsner Malt Extract – 6.6 Pounds
Crushed Grain, Lager Mix (.6 Durst Pilsner Malt, .4 Crystal-Pils
3. Australian Galaxy Bittering Hops (AA 14.0) - 1 Ounce
4. New Zealand Motueka Aroma Hops (AA 7.5) - 1 Ounce Pellets
White Labs San Francisco Lager Yeast - 1 Vial
5. Corn Sugar - 1/2 cup
February 9, 2013 - This is our first attempt at an
extract-based Australian Lager. It will also represent our
first go at dry-hopping a homebrew. We
plan to add the New Zealand Motueka aroma hop pellets to the
secondary, where they will steep for 7 - 10 days
So, to start the brew day we cleaned and sanitized all
our home brewing equipment, of course. And, we got our
two fermenting carboys (each 6-gallons) cleaned, sanitized,
in preparation for the wort.
Next, 3 gallons of cold, filtered water went into the
brew kettle. Heat was added and the temperature was
raised to around 150 - 155 degrees F. At that point we
added the grain bags, where it steeped for 55 minutes to 1
hour. The temperature was closely monitored,
Important: Do not add your grain bag until the
temperature of your water has risen to, and is holding
steady at 150 - 155 degrees F. Why? Well, if you
forget about monitoring your water for a few minutes, you
can always adjust for temperatures higher than 155 degrees
F. (by cooling, obviously). If the grain bag was
placed in the water as the temperature was rising, and you
step away for a minute, the grains may accidently steep at a
higher temperature and produce off-flavors.
In go the grains...
And, after 55 minutes, we take our the grain bag and let
it rest over a sanitized strainer...
After steeping of the grains, a lid was added to the brew
pot (to speed the boiling time), and the temperature was
increased to a near boil, where the malt extract and bittering hops were added.
Bringing the brew back to a boil, we carefully monitored
it for boil over, for 55 minutes of a rigorous boil.
30 minutes into the boil, we added the remaining grain bag
15 minutes before the end of boil, a teaspoon of Irish
moss was added. This aids in coagulating all the
particles and proteins so that they fall to the bottom of
the brew pot and reduces the amount of trub picked up when
racking to the fermenter.
Just prior to the end of boil, we started adding cool,
filtered water to the clean and sanitized 6-gallon carboy.
We added about 2 gallons.
The sink was half-filled with cold water, and the brew
kettle was placed into it for cooling.
After a few minutes we siphoned the wort into the carboy,
and the temperature reduced to 72 degrees F, where we
pitched the yeast. A thorough shaking for about 5
minutes to aerate the wort was followed by the addition of
an air-lock. The fermenter was moved to a corner of
the house at room temperature. A dark towel was placed
around it to keep light out.
Feb 10, 2013: This morning, about 16 hours
since yeast was pitched, fermentation has began. We
are moving the brew to a cool area of the basement, where
temperatures are steady at 45 - 50 degrees F.
Remember, this is a lager. We should have done that
after we pitched the yeast, actually.
Feb 11, 2013: So, the brew has been in a cool
area of the basement for about 24 hours now. The
temperature shown on the carboy is 57 - 58 degrees F.
That's still warm for a lager yeast. It's active at
about a plop every 3 seconds. Hopefully, it will cool
to around 40 -45 F.
Feb 12, 2013: The brew is actively fermenting
at about 52 degrees F. About 1 bubble of the air-lock
every 5 seconds. Interestingly, it produces a sulfur
aroma. The particles have coagulated and can
occasionally be seen floating up and down within the carboy.
Looks like this is going to be a partially successful
fermentation for our first lager. We have learned to
expect some slight off-flavors (probably too distant for our
young tastes). Those flavors may come from the fact
that we pitched the yeast at room temperature of about 70
degrees F, and moved the fermenter to a cool location after
fermentation had started. Learned this after just
reading "How to Brew" by John J. Palmer. Also, we don't have it cool
enough in my opinion, even at 52 degrees F. We'll see,
Feb 13, 2013: Checked this morning around 11am. Steadily fermenting and showing
signs of slow down, with a plop of the air-lock about every
15 seconds. Beautiful gold-amber color. Krausen
layer has fallen somewhat. Temperature has dropped a
couple degrees since yesterday and is now around 50 degrees
F. After checking at 4pm (5 hours later) I noticed the
air-lock was plopping faster, around once every 6 or 7
seconds! Temperature hasn't changed. So, why the
increase in activity after a slow down was indicated?
Perhaps I disturbed the contents a bit? It is resting
on a tall filing cabinet that shakes slightly when I bump
into it. Will have to check the message forums for the
Feb 14, 2013: Fermenting at about 1 bubble of
the air-lock every 10 seconds. Temperature has fallen
to about 47 degrees F. Looking good! Sulfur
smells are gone.
Feb 15, 2013: Fermentation hasn't changed.
Still going at about 1 bubble per 10 seconds.
Temperature steady at 47 degrees F.
Feb 16, 2013 (One Week After Pitching Yeast):
Checked this morning and all is progressing well.
Temperature cooled further to around 40 degrees F.
Fermentation has slowed somewhat. One plop of the
air-lock every 30 seconds.
Feb 17, 2013: Alert! Air-lock froze.
Temperature was around 30 degrees. So, we replaced the
air-lock, after trying to melt the ice in it with a hair
dryer (which didn't work). Care was taken to switch it
quickly with a clean and sanitized air-lock.
Fortunately, fermentation also had slowed to a near stop,
eliminating the possibility that the air-lock and bung
Feb 18, 2013 (9 Days After Pitching Yeast):
Temperature is steady after rising to about 40 degrees F.
Fermentation has picked back up again, with one plop every
Feb 19, 2013: Fermenting hasn't changed. Temp
increased to 48 degrees F. Still going at about 1
bubble every 15 seconds. Starting to show signs of
Feb 20, 2013: Fermenting at 48 degrees F. About
1 bubble every 15 seconds. Nothing changed.
Feb 25, 2013: Been checking the brew daily for
the past 5 days. Steady fermenting at 1 plop of the
air-lock every 15 seconds. Nothing changed. This
is certainly going to be a fully attenuated homebrewed beer!
Temp increased slightly to 50 degrees F. Thinking
about moving it to a secondary in a few days. Really
want to get it off the yeast before 3 weeks in. We are
presently at about 16 days.
March 3, 2013: Moved the brew to a secondary
carboy and added the aroma "pellet" hops directly to the
March 5, 2013: We now realized we should have
placed the hops in a cheese-cloth bag. Most of the
hops has gathered at the top of the carboy, in the neck.
They aren't saturating to the bottom like we expected.
So, the next time, we'll just add them to the keg, or weight
them down with something inside a bag.
March 25, 2013: Temperature has held steady
around 50 degrees F. for the past few weeks.
April 7, 2013: We decided it was time to move
the beer to a keg. During the process we picked up
some of the sediment, which will settle out and be dispersed
in a few days with the first glass or two.