Beer Brew 10 - Original Appalachian Pale Ale (OAPA)
July 25, 2014 by
Recipe for this
IPA India Pale Ale Home Brew
Briess Golden Light Dry Malt Extract – 1 Pound
Northwestern Gold Malt Extract – 6 Pounds
Crushed Grain, Pale Blend (.5 Crystal 45, .5 Vienna) – 1 Pound
Chinook Pellet Hops, AA 11.1% – 1 Ounce
5. Nugget Pellet Hops, AA 12.9% – 1 Ounce
6. White Labs California Ale Yeast - 1 Vial
Briess Dry Malt Extract, Pilsen Light - 1 cup for Priming
October 9, 2012 - So, we are finally going to
stray away from the kits with this home brew beer.
After discovering exactly what an IPA (India Pale Ale) is,
we decided to clone this beer after our favorite in the
style, a Natty Greene's Southern Pale Ale. Clearly, we
are not going to get it exactly like Natty Greene's, but we
expect to come close. And, we are taking it a step
further, with a very bold proclamation. With
this home brew, we are coining the term "Original Appalachian Pale
Ale" or APA for the first time. The main
difference coming from the water, of course, which is
supplied by the upper Pigeon River/Little East Fork branch
(coming off Cold Mountain) in Cruso/Canton North Carolina).
The types and amounts of hops, as well as the grains used,
also play a role.
Follow along as we take you step-by-step, for the 10th time,
on how we brew at home.
As stated previously, we sanitized everything. This
includes the brew pot, spoon, carboy - anything that is involved
in the home brewing process.
We also previously (yesterday) added 3 gallons of filtered water
to our clean, sanitized carboy. This went in the fridge
for chilling. If you don't use a wort chiller, this is a
great way to quickly cool your brew - just add the chilled water
to the brew pot when all cooking has ceased.
Next, we take filtered water from the fridge dispenser and
add 2 1/2 gallons of this to our brew kettle.
The temperature is increased to 155 degrees and the crushed
grains are added for steeping. It is allowed 50 minutes
and then removed.
Important: Do not add your grain bag until the
temperature of your water has risen to, and is holding steady at
150 - 155 degrees F. Why? Well, if you forget about
monitoring your water for a few minutes, you can always adjust
for temperatures higher than 155 degrees F. (by cooling,
obviously). If the grain bag was placed in the water as
the temperature was rising, and you step away for a minute, the
grains may accidently steep at a higher temperature and produce
As you can see from the image below, the
grains leave the beer with an almost amber color.
During this time, we are enjoying the beer for which this APA
is being honored, a fresh Natty Greene's Southern Pale Ale!
Actually, I have two 6-packs ready. Working on my third
beer now! And, yeah, that's an RJ Rockers pint glass.
RJR is another one of our favorite
breweries. Out of Spartanburg, NC. They actually
sent me this glass as a prize for winning a weekend photo
One thing we should mention is we purchased a new gadget with
this batch of home brew. It's called an "auto siphon".
And, it does exactly that - siphons without the need for
applying lips to tube! We'll see how it performs in a
Back to the brewing. The 50 minutes of grain-steeping
time has passed so we removed our grain bag and placed it in a
strainer over a sanitized bowl. We'll collect the juices
and add them to the boil about half-way through. Never
squeeze the grain bag in hopes of garnering more flavors!
This seems to be a logical thing to do when removing your grains
- but it isn't! Instead, simply lift the grain bag out and
let it run until it reaches a dripping effect. Then rest
that on top of your strainer/bowl.
The temperature was increased to a near boil and the brew was
removed from the heat. In went the malt extract, dry malt,
and hops. Yeah, the hops. This represents another
first for us - bittering hops are added at the beginning of the
boil, as opposed to later during the boil. In that this is an
OAPA/IPA, it has to be a bitter beer. So, the types of
hops, with their high alpha acidity, is required
After 50 minutes of boil time, the heat was removed and in
went the flavoring hops.
A 5-minute rest in a sink of cold water slightly cooled the
brew. We then added the 3 gallons of chilled water,
bringing the temperature down to about 84 degrees F. Since
74 degrees F. is the golden number for yeast pitching, we
realized we were still 10 degrees to warm. So, we auto-siphoned
the brew back into the carboy (which had some coolness in the
glass after a day in the fridge). This reduced the brew to
a manageable 80 degrees. We decided to place it in the
fridge for an hour. And, that got it down to 74.
A quick check with the hydrometer revealed an estimated abv
Incidentally, the auto-siphon worked very well and is something every brewer
should purchase. Highly recommended! About $15.
Using a sanitized funnel, we shook the yeast vial and poured
it into the brew. No, we didn't prepare a starter for our
yeast. We have always pitched it directly from the vial
and never had any problems with fermentation. A vigorous shake mixed everything.
We added the air-lock and placed the brew in a cool area of the
house where the temperature averages 70 - 72 degrees F (our
family room floor). A dark towel was placed around the
carboy to eliminate light entering it.
October 10, 2012 - After 12 hours, the temperature of
the brew is at 70 degrees F. No fermentation indication as
yet. Ok, fermentation just began... at Y+18 (eighteen
hours after yeast was pitched). Temperature is reading
69-70 degrees F.
October 16, 2012 - Fermentation is still active with
about 1 plop of the air-lock every minute or so.
Temperature is at 68-70 degrees F. It is starting to slow
and is showing signs of yeast/sediment dropping.
October 20, 2012 - Fermentation is complete. The
brew was moved to a racking bucket and then bottled.
October 31, 2012 - Tried on and it is pretty good.
Not as hoppy as I had wanted, but very tasty. We'll brew a
second batch to work on some things. Mainly, we want it
more hoppier, and lighter in color.