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Home Brew Beer Recipes - Partial/Extract
Beer Brew 1 - Hubert's Belgium Trippel
  Beer Brew 2 - Straw Dog Kolsch

  Beer Brew 3 - Blow My Windmill Pilsner
  Beer Brew 4 - What to Wheat for Dinner
  Beer Brew 5 - Let the Oktoberfestivities Begin
  Beer Brew 6 - Belgian Battleground Ale
  Beer Brew 7 - Pablo's Kolsch
  Beer Brew 8 - Belgian Golden Ale
  Beer Brew 9 - Ichabod's Cranium Pumpkin Beer
  Beer Brew 10 - Appalachian Pale Ale (OAPA)
  Beer Brew 11 - Appalachian Pale Ale 2 (OAPA)
  Beer Brew 12 - It's Good to be American Pale Ale
  Beer Brew 13 - Another Munich Beer Tent Brau
  Beer Brew 14 - Up Under Australian Lager
  Beer Brew 15 - Monks Gone A Rye Ale
  Beer Brew 16 - Trouble With Belgian Dubbel
  Beer Brew 17 - Hubert's Belgium Tripel 2

About Original Appalachian Pale Ale (OAPA) Home Brew Beer

This is a brand new style of beer, brewed from water native to the Blue Ridge Mountains of the Southern Appalachian Mountain chain.  We are calling it an OAPA, in hopes that this one becomes appreciated as a serious style of beer.

Hops Used

Bittering - Chinook Pellet Hops.

Flavoring - Nugget Pellet Hops.

How Served

Serve OAPA at about 40 - 45 degrees F. in a standard pint glass.  Make sure your glass is clean, without any soap residue.  Get your two fingers of head when pouring.

Food for this Home Brew


Technical Stuff

Image of a hops cone as it appears on a bine.

Styles of Beer
Many have said the taste of beer must be "acquired".  That may be true.  Although factors such as the brewing process and various spices, fruits, etc. play a role, the taste of beer chiefly comes from the malt and water used, esters (or lack of) from the yeast, and the hops.  And, it's the hops that people are inherently tasting when we say beer is an acquired taste... more

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Home Brew How To: Brewing Beer at Home

Discover the wonderful world of home brew.  If you've ever wanted to brew at home, but didn't know how to get started, this website serves to provide information on how to make home brew beer and the home brew process.  Get recipes for home brew beer, and step-by-step instructions on how to home brew beer.  No detail has been left out. 

Every new home brewer is going to need a basic set of brew equipment.  Read about all the home brew supplies available and typically used within the hobby.  Get information about home brew kits - one of the first purchases you'll make.  Find your local home brew stores and shops

You'll find that most beginners use bottles for their home brewed beer.  But, as you advance your knowledge and experience in brewing beer at home, you'll likely want to move away from bottling to kegging your beer.  Learn about the various home brew kegs and kegging systems.

Get answers about the home brew system, the best home brew kits, all the different pieces of home brew gear, and even where to obtain beer labels for your bottles!

Our Favorite Brew Supply Store
If you live in Western North Carolina, we highly recommend you visit the guys over at Asheville Brewers Supply!


Our Favorite Commercial Beers
Chimay Trappistes
Any of the Belgian Monk beers brewed within the walls of the Trappist Monastery and controlled by the International Trappist Association.  World renowned beers that are considered by us among the finest brews.

RJ Rockers
Great beer, brewed in a fashion familiar to any of us who have served with the Army/Air Force in Germany during the Cold War.  Love the new Pint Glass they sent me recently.  Ummmmmm!

BrandBrand Bier - The Brand Beer from The Netherlands.
While stationed in The Netherlands, this was the more popular beer, after Heineken.  In our opinion, it is a far better brew than the big "H" beer!  Unfortunately, Brand beer is not available in the United States.


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Beer Brew 11 - Original Appalachian Pale Ale (OAPA) - Recipe 2

July 25, 2014 by Rick Morris:

Recipe for this IPA India Pale Ale Home Brew

1. Briess Golden Light Dry Malt Extract 3 Pounds
2. Briess CBW Pilsen Light Pure Malt Extract 3.3 Pounds
3. Crushed Grain, Pale Blend (.25 Crystal 45, .75 Vienna) 1 Pound
4. Chinook Pellet Hops, AA 11.1% 1 Ounce
5. Chinook Pellet Hops, AA 11/1% - 1 Ounce
6. Nugget Pellet Hops, AA 12.9% 1 Ounce
7. White Labs California Ale Yeast - 1 Vial
8. Briess Dry Malt Extract, German Wheat Blend - 1 cup for Priming

OAPA - Original Appalachian Pale Ale.  Here are the ingredients for this home brewed beer.

December 24, 2012 - So, here we go with our second attempt at this brew.  We wanted to increase the hoppiness and lighten the color on this one.  As you can see from our first attempt at an Original Appalachian Pale Ale, we used a 50/50 blend of crushed grain (Crystal 45 and Vienna).  This one differs slightly.  Also, we are adding a third ounce of hops, as opposed to the 2 ounces of hops in the first batch.  And, we lightened up the malt extracts, going with a Pilsen Light and Golden Light combination.

As usual, we cleaned and sanitized everything.  A clean and sanitized glass carboy with about 3 gallons of fresh, filtered water went into the fridge to chill.  The vial of White Labs California Ale Yeast was taken from the fridge and placed on the counter under a towel.

Getting everything sanitized is the priority before brewing any batch of beer at home.   6-Gallon home brewing carboy with about 2 1/2 to3 gallons of fresh water.

After adding about 2 1/2 gallons of filtered water to the brew pot, we increased the heat, bringing the temperature to 155 degrees F.  In went the crushed grains/bag for steeping.  Steep time is 50 to 55 minutes and careful, frequent observation of the temperature ensured we did not stray above or below 155 F.

Important: Do not add your grain bag until the temperature of your water has risen to, and is holding steady at 150 - 155 degrees F.  Why?  Well, if you forget about monitoring your water for a few minutes, you can always adjust for temperatures higher than 155 degrees F. (by cooling, obviously).  If the grain bag was placed in the water as the temperature was rising, and you step away for a minute, the grains may accidently steep at a higher temperature and produce off-flavors.

The crushed grains are added to the homebrew kettle.  

After 55 minutes, the grain bag was removed.  We let it drain for about 30 seconds prior to placing it into a strainer over a pot.  As always, you save those extra juices for adding to the boil later.  And, never squeeze the grain bag!  Bad, bad, bad, bad, bad.

Removing the grain bag from the wort after 55 minutes of steeping at 155 degrees F.  This is one of the first steps in brewing beer at home.   Place the grain bag in a strainer and save the juices for adding later to the home brew during mid boil.

The temperature was increased, bringing the brew to a near boil.  At that point, we removed the heat and added the malt extract and dry malt extract to the brew pot.  Back to a boil, and careful observation prevented any potential boil over.  Boiling lasted 60 minutes in total.

Adding the dry malt extract powder to the brew pot for our Original Appalachian Pale Ale.   Adding the malt extract, a pilsen light extract to the brew pot prior to boil.

Another picture of the dry malt extract going into the brew pot, as well as an image of the boil...

Adding the dry malt extract to the brew pot of our homebrew.   Here is what the home brew kettle looks like during the boil, just after the dry malt extract was added.

We also add 1 ounce of Chinook bittering hops, and enjoyed a nice Southern Pale Ale from Natty Green's!

Adding the Chinook bittering hops to the brew pot.  Bittering hops help balance out the sweetness of the malt during the home brewing process.   It is impossible to brew beer at home without drinking a beer!  Here is a nicely poured pint of Natty Greene's Southern Pale Ale.

About 15 minutes into the boil, we added the second ounce of Chinook hops, and the remaining grain bag juice.

At mid boil, in went the Chinook bittering hops.

At the end of the boil, we added the flavoring hops (Nugget) and let the wort rest for 5 minutes.

Nugget hops are added to the end of the boil.

The sink was filled half-way with cold water and the brew pot was placed in it to provide some initial cooling.

A sink full of cold water helps bring your home brew wort down in temperature.

The 2 1/2 gallons of cold water from the carboy was siphoned into the brew pot.  This brought the temperature of our wort down to about 100 degrees F.  The brew was then siphoned back into the carboy.  A sanitized plastic cover was temporarily added and the brew was set outside to cool to yeast-pitching temperature.  After all, it is December and the temperature outside is a cool 40 degrees F.  Plus, I have yet to forego the 80 dollars for an immersion chiller!

The wort is siphoned to the glass fermenting carboy.   The brew is added to the carboy and placed outside to further cool in preparation for yeast.

December 24, 2012 - 6pm:  After about two hours, the wort had reached a temperature of about 74 degrees F.  At that point, the yeast was pitched directly from the White Labs vial.  A vigorous shake aerated the brew.  An air-lock was added and the carboy placed in a cool area of the house.  As usual, we covered it with a dark towel to eliminate light from entering.  In the photo below, our OAPA is the one on the left.

Our American Pale Ale in the fermentor, after yeast has been added.  The air locks keep bacteria out, while letting the CO2 escape safely.

December 25, 2012:  Fermentation began around 9am this morning... or about 18 hours after yeast was pitched.  Temperature is steady at 71 degrees F.  By the evening, I noticed the fermentation reach an activity that had bubbles coming out of the air lock (a minor spillover).  This comes in part from the fact that I have about 5 1/2 to 5 3/4 gallons of brew in the 6-gallon carboy fermenting vessel.  In other words, I brewed about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon too much, leaving little room for expansion during fermentation!  Since it really isn't doing anything except creating a small amount of spillover, I will leave it alone for now.  Here is a picture of the spillover at 8pm and one at about 10pm.  The second image shows the air-lock has spat out the inner piece...

A photo of my home brew beer at the early stage of spillover.   Two hours later, the air-lock has failed and the brew is spilling over.  No need to panic.  Just wait until active fermentation has passed and place a new air-lock on the carboy.

Ok, so after a quick posting on Northern Brewer's forum, credit has to go to "Nighthawk", a master brewer on the board (and no doubt in real life!) gave me this solution...

A blow off tube setup solves the problem of active fermentation and high krausen layer causing a spill over using the air-lock.

Works like a charm!

December 26, 2012:  Fermentation is very active at about 120 pops a minute.  The modified air-lock (blow-off) system is performing well.  Albeit I'm going to have fun cleaning the hose later!  Temperature is 71 F.  The fermentation has the coagulated particles rolling really well!

December 27, 2012:  Everything is progressing well.  The new blow-off system works like a charm.  Fermentation is still very active.  Temperature steady at 70 F.

December 28, 2012:  Fermentation has slowed considerably.  It's apparent that most of the sugars have been eaten away by the yeast.  The larger coagulants have settled.  But, there is still very active movement of fine particles in the brew, and the blow-off is showing a small plop every 4 or 5 seconds.  Temperature is 70 F.

Here is our Appalachian Pale Ale homebrew resting in 12-ounce bottles, neatly in a rubber-maid container.January 4, 2013:  Fermentation has stopped.  Without too much concern for measuring final gravity, we gave fermentation 10 days.  Now it's bottling time.  Instead of using corn sugar as priming sugar (for carbonation), we decided to use dry malt extract (DME).  Our beers seem to develop a thick, frothy head when we use DME.

We added 3/4 cup DME with about 2 cups of water, brought it to a boil, and then cooled it to room temperature.  After thoroughly cleaning and sanitizing our beer bottles and beer bottling equipment, we added the DME and filled 56 12-ounce bottles.  Usually, we get about 50 to 52 bottles.  But, there was a bit more in this batch, as planned.

The bottles were capped with your standard two-handle capper and placed in a Rubber-Maid container.  We decided this would be the best way to go with storage just in case bottles start exploding (something we have fortunately never experienced!)

We'll give them a few weeks (hopefully at least three) to condition before trying one.

January 13, 2013:  Couldn't wait, had to try one.  The carbonation is not complete, but apparent.  The taste of DME is evident, as it hasn't had time to have been eaten by the yeast.  Still needs at least a week, and probably two.

January 21, 2013: Beer tastes a bit chalky and stale.  After investigating, we discovered we probably have an issue with air getting into the brew at some point during fermentation or bottling. 

January 28, 2013:  This one seems to have turned out not as good as the first Original Appalachian Pale Ale.  Still get the chalky and stale features.  Back to the drawing board.


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