Beer Brew 11 - Original Appalachian Pale Ale (OAPA) - Recipe
July 25, 2014 by
Recipe for this
IPA India Pale Ale Home Brew
Briess Golden Light Dry Malt Extract – 3 Pounds
2. Briess CBW Pilsen Light Pure Malt Extract – 3.3 Pounds
Crushed Grain, Pale Blend (.25 Crystal 45, .75 Vienna) – 1 Pound
Chinook Pellet Hops, AA 11.1% – 1 Ounce
5. Chinook Pellet Hops, AA 11/1% - 1 Ounce
6. Nugget Pellet Hops, AA 12.9% – 1 Ounce
7. White Labs California Ale Yeast - 1 Vial
8. Briess Dry Malt Extract, German Wheat Blend - 1 cup for Priming
December 24, 2012 - So, here we go with our second
attempt at this brew. We wanted to increase the
hoppiness and lighten the color on this one. As you
can see from our first attempt at an
Original Appalachian Pale Ale, we used a 50/50 blend of
crushed grain (Crystal 45 and Vienna). This one
differs slightly. Also, we are adding a third ounce of
hops, as opposed to the 2 ounces of hops in the first batch.
And, we lightened up the malt extracts, going with a Pilsen
Light and Golden Light combination.
As usual, we cleaned and sanitized everything. A clean
and sanitized glass carboy with about 3 gallons of fresh,
filtered water went into the fridge to chill. The vial of
White Labs California Ale Yeast was taken from the fridge and
placed on the counter under a towel.
After adding about 2 1/2 gallons of filtered water to the
brew pot, we increased the heat, bringing the temperature to 155
degrees F. In went the crushed grains/bag for steeping.
Steep time is 50 to 55 minutes and careful, frequent observation
of the temperature ensured we did not stray above or below 155
Important: Do not add your grain bag until the
temperature of your water has risen to, and is holding steady at
150 - 155 degrees F. Why? Well, if you forget about
monitoring your water for a few minutes, you can always adjust
for temperatures higher than 155 degrees F. (by cooling,
obviously). If the grain bag was placed in the water as
the temperature was rising, and you step away for a minute, the
grains may accidently steep at a higher temperature and produce
After 55 minutes, the grain bag was removed. We let it
drain for about 30 seconds prior to placing it into a strainer
over a pot. As always, you save those extra juices for
adding to the boil later. And, never squeeze the grain
bag! Bad, bad, bad, bad, bad.
The temperature was increased, bringing the brew to a near
boil. At that point, we removed the heat and added the
malt extract and dry malt extract to the brew pot. Back to
a boil, and careful observation prevented any potential boil
over. Boiling lasted 60 minutes in total.
Another picture of the dry malt extract going into the brew
pot, as well as an image of the boil...
We also add 1 ounce of Chinook bittering hops, and enjoyed a
nice Southern Pale Ale from Natty Green's!
About 15 minutes into the boil, we added the second ounce of
Chinook hops, and the remaining grain bag juice.
At the end of the boil, we added the flavoring hops (Nugget)
and let the wort rest for 5 minutes.
The sink was filled half-way with cold water and the brew pot
was placed in it to provide some initial cooling.
The 2 1/2 gallons of cold water from the carboy was siphoned
into the brew pot. This brought the temperature of our
wort down to about 100 degrees F. The brew was then
siphoned back into the carboy. A sanitized plastic cover
was temporarily added and the brew was set outside to cool to
yeast-pitching temperature. After all, it is December and
the temperature outside is a cool 40 degrees F. Plus, I
have yet to forego the 80 dollars for an immersion chiller!
December 24, 2012 - 6pm: After about two hours,
the wort had reached a temperature of about 74 degrees F.
At that point, the yeast was pitched directly from the White
Labs vial. A vigorous shake aerated the brew. An
air-lock was added and the carboy placed in a cool area of the
house. As usual, we covered it with a dark towel to
eliminate light from entering. In the photo below, our
OAPA is the one on the left.
December 25, 2012: Fermentation began around 9am
this morning... or about 18 hours after yeast was pitched.
Temperature is steady at 71 degrees F. By the evening, I
noticed the fermentation reach an activity that had bubbles
coming out of the air lock (a minor spillover). This comes
in part from the fact that I have about 5 1/2 to 5 3/4 gallons
of brew in the 6-gallon carboy fermenting vessel. In other
words, I brewed about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon too much, leaving little
room for expansion during fermentation! Since it really
isn't doing anything except creating a small amount of
spillover, I will leave it alone for now. Here is a
picture of the spillover at 8pm and one at about 10pm. The
second image shows the air-lock has spat out the inner piece...
Ok, so after a quick posting on
Northern Brewer's forum, credit has to go to "Nighthawk", a
master brewer on the board (and no doubt in real life!) gave me
Works like a charm!
December 26, 2012: Fermentation is very active
at about 120 pops a minute. The modified air-lock
(blow-off) system is performing well. Albeit I'm going to
have fun cleaning the hose later! Temperature is 71 F.
The fermentation has the coagulated particles rolling really
December 27, 2012: Everything is progressing
well. The new blow-off system works like a charm.
Fermentation is still very active. Temperature steady at
December 28, 2012: Fermentation has slowed
considerably. It's apparent that most of the sugars have
been eaten away by the yeast. The larger coagulants have
settled. But, there is still very active movement of fine
particles in the brew, and the blow-off is showing a small plop
every 4 or 5 seconds. Temperature is 70 F.
January 4, 2013: Fermentation has stopped.
Without too much concern for measuring final gravity, we gave
fermentation 10 days. Now it's bottling time.
Instead of using corn sugar as priming sugar (for carbonation),
we decided to use dry malt extract (DME). Our beers seem
to develop a thick, frothy head when we use DME.
We added 3/4 cup DME with about 2 cups of water, brought it
to a boil, and then cooled it to room temperature. After
thoroughly cleaning and sanitizing our beer bottles and beer
bottling equipment, we added the DME and filled 56 12-ounce
bottles. Usually, we get about 50 to 52 bottles.
But, there was a bit more in this batch, as planned.
The bottles were capped with your standard two-handle capper
and placed in a Rubber-Maid container. We decided this
would be the best way to go with storage just in case bottles
start exploding (something we have fortunately never
We'll give them a few weeks (hopefully at least three) to
condition before trying one.
January 13, 2013: Couldn't wait, had to try
one. The carbonation is not complete, but apparent.
The taste of DME is evident, as it hasn't had time to have
been eaten by the yeast. Still needs at least a week,
and probably two.
January 21, 2013: Beer tastes a bit chalky and stale.
After investigating, we discovered we probably have an issue
with air getting into the brew at some point during fermentation
January 28, 2013: This one seems to have turned
out not as good as the first
Appalachian Pale Ale. Still get the chalky and stale
features. Back to the drawing board.