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Home Brew Beer Recipes - Partial/Extract
 
Beer Brew 1 - Hubert's Belgium Trippel
  Beer Brew 2 - Straw Dog Kolsch

  Beer Brew 3 - Blow My Windmill Pilsner
  Beer Brew 4 - What to Wheat for Dinner
  Beer Brew 5 - Let the Oktoberfestivities Begin
  Beer Brew 6 - Belgian Battleground Ale
  Beer Brew 7 - Pablo's Kolsch
  Beer Brew 8 - Belgian Golden Ale
  Beer Brew 9 - Ichabod's Cranium Pumpkin Beer
  Beer Brew 10 - Appalachian Pale Ale (OAPA)
  Beer Brew 11 - Appalachian Pale Ale 2 (OAPA)
  Beer Brew 12 - It's Good to be American Pale Ale
  Beer Brew 13 - Another Munich Beer Tent Brau
  Beer Brew 14 - Up Under Australian Lager
  Beer Brew 15 - Monks Gone A Rye Ale
  Beer Brew 16 - Trouble With Belgian Dubbel
  Beer Brew 17 - Hubert's Belgium Tripel 2

About Pilsner Home Brew Beer

Beers from the Netherlands are commonly pale lagers.  Grolsch (with its flip-top lids) and Heineken, the third-largest brewer, are perfect examples.  In fact, virtually all of the beer brewed and consumed in the Netherlands is of the pale lager style (around 95%).

Pilsner beer is a type of pale lager.  Pale lagers are fully-attenuated (all sugars have fermented) and very stable beers which give off a very pale to golden-colored appearance, and any level of noble hop bitterness.  Expect a dry, crisp, and clean-tasting beer here,  with a very distinct hop aroma.

First brewed in the 1840s in Pilsen, Czech Republic and primarily with pilsner malt and noble hops, Pilsner lagers are coincidentally the most common beer available anywhere.  The Original Source of Pilsner is Pilsner Urquell (German name), or Plzensky Prazdroj.  American brewers of Budweiser ruined the pale lager by adding inexpensive adjuncts (add junk, as homebrewers of real beer like to say) such as corn and rice.  It amazes me that people still drink that shit.

Credit for the pale lager style goes to Gabriel Sedlmayr, who during the 1800s applied pale ale brewing at his Spaten Brewery (in Germany), where he brewed lagers.  The process was soon being used by other brewers, including Pilsner Urquell brewer Josef Groll, from Pilsen, Czech Republic.  Thus, lager's other used name - pilsner.

In the United States, the first brewer of pale lager beer was John Wagner, of Philadelphia.  In 1840, Wagner used a yeast from his home country of Bavaria to brew this beer.

Today, there is a new term, premium lager.  It is absolutely a marketing ploy used by very large brewers such as Anheuser-Busch to draw attention to their beers.  In my opinion, there are no mass-produced premium lagers.  The term is useless to most brewers of real beer, and carries no weight at all.  If you are one of the millions of Americans who have been fooled into believing there is something special about a "premium" lager, well then you need to become better educated on real beer.

Hops Used

Bittering - Czech Saaz Hops.

Flavoring - N/A.

Technical Stuff

Image of a hops cone as it appears on a bine.

Styles of Beer
Many have said the taste of beer must be "acquired".  That may be true.  Although factors such as the brewing process and various spices, fruits, etc. play a role, the taste of beer chiefly comes from the malt and water used, esters (or lack of) from the yeast, and the hops.  And, it's the hops that people are inherently tasting when we say beer is an acquired taste... more

Choosing the Right Beer Glass

Home Brew Websites

Find a Beer Brewery

Home Brew How To: Brewing Beer

Discover the wonderful world of home brew.  If you've ever wanted to brew at home, but didn't know how to get started, this website serves to provide information on how to make home brew beer and the home brew process.  Get recipes for home brew beer, and step-by-step instructions on how to home brew beer.  No detail has been left out. 

Every new home brewer is going to need a basic set of brew equipment.  Read about all the home brew supplies available and typically used within the hobby.  Get information about home brew kits - one of the first purchases you'll make.  Find your local home brew stores and shops

You'll find that most beginners use bottles for their home brewed beer.  But, as you advance your knowledge and experience in brewing beer at home, you'll likely want to move away from bottling to kegging your beer.  Learn about the various home brew kegs and kegging systems.

Get answers about the home brew system, the best home brew kits, all the different pieces of home brew gear, and even where to obtain beer labels for your bottles!

Our Favorite Brew Supply Store
If you live in Western North Carolina, we highly recommend you visit the guys over at Asheville Brewers Supply!

 

 
Our Favorite Commercial Beers
Chimay Trappistes
Any of the Belgian Monk beers brewed within the walls of the Trappist Monastery and controlled by the International Trappist Association.  World renowned beers that are considered by us among the finest brews.

RJ Rockers
Great beer, brewed in a fashion familiar to any of us who have served with the Army/Air Force in Germany during the Cold War.  Love the new Pint Glass they sent me recently.  Ummmmmm!

BrandBrand Bier - The Brand Beer from The Netherlands.
While stationed in The Netherlands, this was the more popular beer, after Heineken.  In our opinion, it is a far better brew than the big "H" beer!  Unfortunately, Brand beer is not available in the United States.

 

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Beer Brew 3 - Blow My Windmill Pilsner

July 25, 2014 by Rick Morris:

Recipe for this Dutch Pilsner Pale Lager Home Brew

1. Briess/Northwestern Gold Malt Extract 3.3 Pounds
2. Briess/Northwestern Pilsner Dry Malt Extract 3 Pounds
3. Czech Saaz Hops - 5 Ounces
4. White Labs WLP800 Lager Yeast - 1 Vial
5. Corn Sugar - 1/2 cup


March 2012 - This is a fairly basic and simple brew, in that it contains the four main ingredients of beer: malt, hops, yeast, and water.  It's based on a Heineken-style beer.  We got the ingredients from our favorite local home brew supply store, Asheville Brewers Supply in Asheville, North Carolina.  Heavy on the hops, we expect this brew to be fairly bitter.

Here are the ingredients for our Pilsner Home Brew.

Clearly, the pre-brewing process involves cleaning and sanitizing everything.  Like all home brewing processes, we used a water/sanitizer mix for that.  This time, we used a brand called One Step (No Rinse Cleanser).

We used One Step powder for sanitizing all our home brew equipment.   Co-brewer Levi Heatherly is busy making technical notes for this batch of home brew.

Another step we performed involved securing a bowl of ice from our fridge-freezer.  During our last batch of home brew beer, the Straw Dog Kolsch, we used ice to bring down the temperature of the wort in quick fashion.  By moving a bowl of ice from the ice-maker box to a bowl, we ensured we had more ice being made while we were brewing.  We realized we needed a bit more last time around, so we are setting ourselves up for success here.  Again, it is filtered water that is used here.  I wouldn't recommend going down to the convenience store for a bag of ice.  Who knows where it comes from, and if it is clean.

Blow My Windmill Pilsner - Home Brew 3 - Adding the Malt   Blow My Windmill Pilsner - Home Brew 3 - Adding the Malt Extract

Using our 5 1/2 - gallon stainless steel brew pot, we brought about 2 1/2 gallons of water to a near boil and reduced the heat.  Since there was no grain bag that needed steeped, we immediately added our Gold Malt and Dry Malt extract.

Blow My Windmill Pilsner - Home Brew 3 - Stirring is the most important part of brewing beer!   Blow My Windmill Pilsner - Home Brew 3 - This is what happens when you don't pay attention after your add your malt!

After stirring for about 5 minutes, we broke the golden rule and turned our back on the brew for 15 seconds.  As you can see from the picture, we had an over-flow and a slight mess.  No need to freak out, though.  We didn't lose much in the way of malt extract because we caught the boil-over just as it started.  So, after a quick cleansing of the stove and area, we started bringing the wort back to a gentle boil.

The recipe calls for adding the hops at 5 different increments, 1 ounce at a time.  So, we added the first ounce of hops at 10 minutes after first boil.  The hops all have an alpha acidity of 3.0%. 

Blow My Windmill Pilsner - Home Brew 3 - Adding the hops to your home brew.   Blow My Windmill Pilsner - Home Brew 3 - Adding the hops to your home brew.

Ten minutes later, we added another ounce of hops, followed by another 10 minutes after that.  This pattern went twice more until all 5 1-ounce packets of hops were in the brew.

After 50 minutes of total boil time, we removed the wort from the heat, and immediately added the ice, bringing the brew up to about 3 total gallons of liquid.  We then added filtered water from the fridge to top it off at 5 1/4 gallons of brew.  The temperature at this point was around 80 degrees.  We then rested the brew pot in a sink of cold water, reducing the temperature to 72-74 after about 10 more minutes.  Time to pitch the yeast.

Blow My Windmill Pilsner - Home Brew 3 - Don't add your yeast until the temperature reduces to 72 - 74 degrees! Blow My Windmill Pilsner - Home Brew 3 - Transferring the wort to the primary fermenter ... a glass carboy.  You can see we are adding the yeast about half way through in this process of home brewing.

This go around, we are going to do our initial (and only) fermentation in a glass carboy.  So, we added the vial of yeast to our carboy, and siphoned in the wort. The vial of yeast surprised us with a "fizzing" sound, and slight overflow (like opening a can of soda pop), when we opened it.  But, that is normal, so don't freak out when it happens to you!

We really didn't need to worry about collecting all the sediment, as it serves little purpose now that it has been cooked (correct me if I'm wrong, someone).  However, a considerable amount of sediment - much of it, in fact - did find its way through the siphon hose into the carboy.

Blow My Windmill Pilsner - Home Brew 3 - The yeast has been pitched, the air-lock attached, and the beer is resting, ready for primary fermentation.  A few moments later, we moved to cool dark place with temperature around 68 - 70 degrees.   Fermentation started the next day, as shown here in the glass carboy.

This was our first batch of home brew with its primary fermentation in a glass carboy.  We wanted to do it this way for two reasons:  first, we wanted to see the actual fermenting in action; and we planned to brew another batch immediately after this one (the next day), so we had to use the carboy for one, and the bucket for the other.

An airlock was added and the brew was covered with a towel and positioned in a cool location in a bedroom closet.  Temperature is about 68 - 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Fermentation started fairly quickly at about 12 hours later (the next morning).  And, by the 15th hour the air lock showed movement every 2 or 3 seconds.  That quickly moved to a more vigorous fermentation at about 1 "bounce" per second.  And, the temperature rose to a 72 degrees as it fermented.  So, we decided it was time to move the brew to a dark, cool location in the basement, where the temperature is stead around 45 degrees F.

 

After 10 days in the primary fermenter, the beer was allowed to secondary ferment in a different carboy for another few weeks...

After about a month in the secondary fermentation, the beer was bottled in large, wire-top bottles and allowed to condition in the fridge for about 10 days before we tried our first one.  And, did we ever succeed!  Great beer after mowing the lawn on a hot summer day!

         
 

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