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Home Brew Beer Recipes - Partial/Extract
 
Beer Brew 1 - Hubert's Belgium Trippel
  Beer Brew 2 - Straw Dog Kolsch

  Beer Brew 3 - Blow My Windmill Pilsner
  Beer Brew 4 - What to Wheat for Dinner
  Beer Brew 5 - Let the Oktoberfestivities Begin
  Beer Brew 6 - Belgian Battleground Ale
  Beer Brew 7 - Pablo's Kolsch
  Beer Brew 8 - Belgian Golden Ale
  Beer Brew 9 - Ichabod's Cranium Pumpkin Beer
  Beer Brew 10 - Appalachian Pale Ale (OAPA)
  Beer Brew 11 - Appalachian Pale Ale 2 (OAPA)
  Beer Brew 12 - It's Good to be American Pale Ale
  Beer Brew 13 - Another Munich Beer Tent Brau
  Beer Brew 14 - Up Under Australian Lager
  Beer Brew 15 - Monks Gone A Rye Ale
  Beer Brew 16 - Trouble With Belgian Dubbel
  Beer Brew 17 - Hubert's Belgium Tripel 2

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Styles of Beer
Many have said the taste of beer must be "acquired".  That may be true.  Although factors such as the brewing process and various spices, fruits, etc. play a role, the taste of beer chiefly comes from the malt and water used, esters (or lack of) from the yeast, and the hops.  And, it's the hops that people are inherently tasting when we say beer is an acquired taste... more

Choosing the Right Beer Glass

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Home Brew How To: Brewing Beer at Home

Discover the wonderful world of home brew.  If you've ever wanted to brew at home, but didn't know how to get started, this website serves to provide information on how to make home brew beer and the home brew process.  Get recipes for home brew beer, and step-by-step instructions on how to home brew beer.  No detail has been left out. 

Every new home brewer is going to need a basic set of brew equipment.  Read about all the home brew supplies available and typically used within the hobby.  Get information about home brew kits - one of the first purchases you'll make.  Find your local home brew stores and shops

You'll find that most beginners use bottles for their home brewed beer.  But, as you advance your knowledge and experience in brewing beer at home, you'll likely want to move away from bottling to kegging your beer.  Learn about the various home brew kegs and kegging systems.

Get answers about the home brew system, the best home brew kits, all the different pieces of home brew gear, and even where to obtain beer labels for your bottles!

Our Favorite Brew Supply Store
If you live in Western North Carolina, we highly recommend you visit the guys over at Asheville Brewers Supply!

 

 
Our Favorite Commercial Beers
Chimay Trappistes
Any of the Belgian Monk beers brewed within the walls of the Trappist Monastery and controlled by the International Trappist Association.  World renowned beers that are considered by us among the finest brews.

RJ Rockers
Great beer, brewed in a fashion familiar to any of us who have served with the Army/Air Force in Germany during the Cold War.  Love the new Pint Glass they sent me recently.  Ummmmmm!

BrandBrand Bier - The Brand Beer from The Netherlands.
While stationed in The Netherlands, this was the more popular beer, after Heineken.  In our opinion, it is a far better brew than the big "H" beer!  Unfortunately, Brand beer is not available in the United States.

 

All Grain Beer Recipe

All Grain IPA

All Grain IPA Recipe

All Grain Lager Recipe

All Grain Pale Ale Recipe

All Grain Pilsner Recipe

Amber Ale Recipe

American Ale Recipe

American Amber Ales

American IPA Recipe

American Lager Recipe

American Pale Ale Recipe

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Belgian Beer Recipe

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Belgian Strong Ale Recipe

Belgian Tripel Recipe

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Bock Recipe

Bohemian Pilsner Recipe

Boston Lager Recipe

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IPA Recipe Home Brew

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Pumpkin Ale All Grain Recipe

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Red Ale Recipe All Grain

Rye Ale Recipe

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Saison Recipe

Scotch Ale Recipe

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Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Recipe

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Vienna Lager Recipe

Weizen Bock Recipe

Weizen Recipe

Wheat Ale Recipe

Wheat Beer Recipe

Wheat Beer Recipes

Winter Ale Recipe

Winter Lager Recipe

Witbier Recipe

 

All Grain Brewing: Homebrewer's Best Guide to Going All Grain

July 25, 2014 by Rick Morris:

If you are like many home brewers, you likely started your home brewing process by boiling the sticky, molasses-like extract - a method known as "extract brewing".  Now that you are more educated and confident in brewing beer at home, you may be interested in going "all grain".  In short, you want get serious.

Why go to all-grain brewing?  There are two primary reasons: savings and control.  Brewing all-grain generally costs less than extract brewing.  So, you are going to save a few dollars per batch.  And, the control you get from mixing and matching various types and amounts of grains is what separates all the beers of the world.  With all grain brewing, you have that flexibility to create you own special beer!

There really is only one primary difference between extract and all-grain brewing, and that is you will be soaking (steeping) your crushed malted barley (and/or other grains) at a controlled temperature of about 169 degrees F.  This is a beer brewing process known as "mashing".  It basically hydrates the malted barley and converts the starches into sugars.  You then drain the sugary liquid into your brew pot for boiling.  This is known as "sparging".  After that, it's pretty much the same as extract brewing.

All Grain Brewing Equipment

Brew Kettle - A 10-gallon brew pot/kettle is suggested. 

Propane and Burner Stand - It's better to "cook" your beer outside. You won't have to worry about boil overs making a mess and you can kill the heat instantly.  Also, you'll prevent the condensation from forming on the stove hood, which could drip back down into the brew pot.

Mash Tun (Cooler) - Most home brewers us a modified drink cooler as a mash tun.  It's cheap and easy to make.  And, it controls the temperatures perfectly for all-grain mashing.

Wort Chiller - When the wort has boiled it is essential you cool it to about 70 degrees F as quickly as possible.  Otherwise, you run the risk of bacteria or sanitation issues finding their way into the wort.  And, the best way to cool the wort is with a wort chiller.

All Grain Brewing Process

The process of brewing all-grain is about the same as brewing extract, as noted above.  But, it does take a little more time.  You'll be heating mash water, mashing the grains, sparging the grains, boiling and cooling the wort, fermenting the wort.  Here is a basic class on the all-grain brewing process...

Prepping

Obviously, like all brew days, you are going to spend a certain amount of time cleaning and sanitizing your home brew equipment.  This will include the brew kettle, mash tun, sparge water pot, spoons, wort chiller, siphon, hydrometer, etc.  You'll also be moving your yeast from the refrigerator so it can reach room temperature.  In the case of "smack packs" of yeast, you'll want to smack your pack!

Heat Mash Water

The first step is to heat the measured amount of water you will be using in mashing the grains (usually 6.5 gallons for a 5-gallon batch of beer).  You can accomplish this on a standard stove top, but it would be more efficient to do it in a larger brew pot on an outdoor propane burnner setup.  You'll heat the water to around 169 degrees F.  Once the appropriate temperature has been achieved, the water is carefully poured into the mash tun. 

Mashing

Next, crushed grains are poured in slowly and stirred to a consistency of oatmeal.  It helps if you have a partner to do the pouring while you stir, or vice versa.  The goal is to accomplish the addition of the grains at a rate that permits you to reach a mash temperature of around 155 degrees F (temperatures are specific to the type of beer being brewed). 

Some home brewers add the grains to the heated water in less than a couple minutes, while others may take up to 15 minutes or more.  The main thing is you want the temperature in the mash tun to be at a certain level for the beer brewed.  The lid is then added and the grains are allowed to "rest" for about an hour to an hour and half.  What happens is magic - the starches in the malted barley and/or grains are converted to sugars that will be used in the boiling process and ultimately will be turned into alcohol.

Sparging

A second amount of water is heated (usually about 4 and 1/2 gallons) to a temperature of about 168 degrees F.  Any more than that and you risk extracting awful-tasting tannins from the mash.  This is going to be your "sparge water".  After the gains have been in the mash tun for the required amount of time (1 to 1.5 hours), this water will be slowly added to the mash tun as the extracted sugary nectar of the gods is slowly drained from the bottom - a process called "rinsing".  You will end up with a certain amount of mash "runnings" that will go into the brew kettle and boiled.

The first bit of drainings will be cloudy and have some small pieces of grains.  These are drained until clear, into a 1-gallon pitcher or bowl and is slowly poured back into the mash tun.  What happens is the grains form a filter bed, which then encourages the runnings to come out clear.  In the art of brewing beer, clear wort is usually desired.

The first runnings are then very slowly drained into the brew pot, with care (hot).  This will permit the maximum amount of sugars being extracted.  You can either drain the whole amount and then add the sparge water and drain it (batch sparging), or you can fly sparge, whereby you continually add the sparge water as the mash tun drains.  Ideally, you'll want to drip or shower the sparge water into the mash tun as opposed to a single stream.  This helps "rinse" more of the grains of their sugars.  Sparging is a process that can take up to an hour to accomplish.

Boiling

The sugary water you mashed and sparged is now ready for boiling.  The kettle is added to a heat source (stove top or propane burner).  The fist step is to take a sample of the wort prior to boiling, and cool it to about 70 degrees F (place in freezer, if desired).  A "specific gravity" measurement is taken at 70 F.  A second reading will be taken at the end of boil and you will be able to calculate the estimated gravity, and alcohol by volume of the home brew.

During boiling, you'll add your first addition hops (pellets or whole hops), second addition hops, flame-out hops, fining agents such as Irish moss, and any possible spices.  Be careful for boil overs!  This can happen around the time you add your hops. 

Cooling

The boiling may last for about 1.5 hours.  After that, chilling it to about 70 degrees F. (for ales) as quickly as possible is the main goal.  Usually, the wort chiller is used to accomplish this.  It is essentially a copper tube connected to the sink's cold water and acts as a heat exchanger.  It is added about 10 minutes before the end of boil so as to sanitize it.  Water flows through the wort chiller and cools the wort to the required temperature in about 20 minutes. 

Fermentation

When the wort has cooled, the beer is siphoned to a fermenter where yeast is added.  The yeast will start to eat the sugars and poop two things - CO2 and alcohol.  This is called fermentation.  The yeast also imparts unique flavors into your home brew.  That's why you will always use yeast that is specific for the type of beer being brewed.

After about 7 to 10 days, fermentation has ceased and the beer is ready to be bottled or kegged. 

All-Grain Brewing Video

         
 

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